Bloomaker does not guarantee that getting your Hyacinths to bloom for another year is going to work. We do however appreciate your enthusiasm if you do want to try to get the bulbs to bloom for another year, therefore we are happy to provide you with all the information you need on the matter.
After the flowers have wilted, allow the foliage to turn yellow and wither. The leaves will continue to gather sunlight and store energy for next year’s blooms. Leave the roots, they will dry off on their own. Cutting them while they are alive is traumatic for the bulbs.
Once the foliage has turned yellow and wither, you may remove it by gently pulling it out. If the leaves do not easily pull away from the bulb, they are not ready to be removed.
Plant them in the garden at the moment the foliage is dying back. We do advise you to wear gloves when handling Hyacinth bulbs as they can irritate your skin.
Refrigerate bulbs for six to eight weeks before planting in zones 8 through 10, place them in a paper bag away from ripening fruits (the fruits produce ethylene gas, which destroys the flower bud within the bulb).
Hyacinths are best when used for naturalizing an area, to achieve this look you can map out an area you would like them to grow in and dig it out to about 2-3” deep. Then scatter the bulbs about for a natural look.
It can be somewhat difficult to determine which end of a hyacinth bulb is “up”. If you are unsure, plant with the flattest side down, the bulb will be smart enough to turn towards the sun, but may take a few extra days to reach the surface.
These bulbs are durable and will grow in most locations but prefer cool moist soil, but grow best when planted in partial sun, but are tolerant of full sun.
Thoroughly soak the area with water once all the bulbs are planted. Like many other bulbs it prefers well drained soil and do not like having wet feet so water only if the soil is dry at a depth of about 3 inches. If it is dry at that depth, it is time to water at soil level.